Top Things To Do in and around Rocamadour

Only 1.5hrs away from our hometown, Limoges, Rocamadour is a good plan for a long weekend. It is a small village in the south-central France, a UNESCO world heritage site and a pilgrimage (religious site) since the medieval ages by kings, bishops and nobles.

The village on the cliff is very well preserved even after the world wars and revolutions. It’s best point of interest is the ancient pilgrim (and miraculous) church of Notre Dame which houses the wooden black madonna statue revered to be carved by St. Amator himself.

For French literature and history fanatics, around the wall close to the pilgrim church of Notre Dame you will see the alleged sword mark and fragment of the “Durandal” when the hero Roland (of Charlemagne) came in the site as a pilgrim. Pretty awesome, ei?!

With our two boys (aged 1 and 3 then), we ventured off for a long weekend and stayed for two nights at a family-friendly and right-at-the-center hotel, Le Relais Amadourien. We have planned our itinerary based on access from the hotel for the three-days-stay. Scroll below for photos of these top places to see and do in and around Rocamadour.

(1) The view of Rocamadour religious site from the panorama terrace of the center. Down the valley is the now dried up river of Rocamadour.

(2) Rocher des Aigles – an hour show (shows are scheduled after every hour) which not only showcases the flights of majestic eagles but of other birds of prey such as vultures and falcons; and ending the show with the row of colorful parrots frolicking about at their carers’ cues. Great for kids and also educational for adults.

The view from our family room at Le Relais Amadourien, promoted as an “eco-friendly” hotel. It has a queen bed and a bunk bed which is perfect for our two boys. The room is well spaced with its clean private bath/toilet – the only irony is the use of plastic cup in the washroom, glass would have been better and eco-friendly.

(3) Above the valley, after a flight of stairs following the pilgrimage route, is Le Château de Rocamadour – provides a lovely view of village from its terrace. Note that it closes after 6PM so better come early to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Rest place with a view – the village is hanging by the cliff and the ancient way to go around it is by walking up and down its flight of stairs (altho there is a lift on the mid part of the cliff to help people who gets tired or can’t go further on thru the stairs, except for pilgrims). Since we have kids and a stroller, we wavered thru its stairs from up the valley down where there are now converted restaurants and shops.

(4) The Miraculous Chapel – where the Black Madonna statue carved in a wood by St. Amadour itself is placed at the altar. Miracles of fertility were the usual registered miracles from its historical records and from our visit we saw mostly couples visiting the chapel. There are other chapels around Cité Réligious complex of Rocamadour including the Crypt of Saint Amadour.

(5) Cité Réligieuse de Rocamadour – awe-inspring place, gave me goosebumps how tranquil and how it amazingly sat at the cliff since medieval ages. When you reach this site, you are already midway from the trekking that great staircase.

The miraculous Black Madonna of Rocamadour, believed to be carved by St. Amadour before his death close to the chapel.

Inside the miraculous chapel you will be welcomed by surrounding shelves of lit candles, as sign of prayers from pilgrims and miracle-wishers. The feeling inside the chapel is surreal, peaceful and calm, even my 3yr old was quiet looking about.

Taken from the side of Le Lion D’Or Hotel and its seemingly tourist-popular restaurant just across it. The view up is where the cité réligieuse is hanging by.

(6) Gouffre de Padirac (Padirac Cave) – an hour drive from Rocamadour, this cave is the largest underground cave in Europe, 100meters deep. It has an underground river which is traversed via boat, a great spectacle of nature via thousands years of formation.

At the end of the river cruise within the cave system, tourists can marvel the deepest site of the cave with its glorious stalactites and stalagmites from thousands of years ago.

(7) La Forêt des Singes – monkey (macaques) forest where they roam and live “free” within this huge forest. All guests are given a handful of popcorns which can be fed to the monkeys, in addition to their veggies and fruits diet around the forest. The kids loved this experience!

The monkeys were all healthy, not one did I see a thin one. They are fed well if not much, and looking content. No aggressive behaviour either, most of the monkeys were huge but they were amazingly calm – I get nervous everytime our kids would hand some popcorn but all were so chill, taking the popcorn from the hand and just went back to what s/he is doing unless handed another popcorn again -no waiting or begging. Humans can learn from animals indeed.

The view from our room looking out below at the breakfast area of the hote. The breakfast spread could be improved tho, i.e. more bread selections.

This is a restaurant across our hotel, tourist-trap. Diners were mostly tourists outside France, hence the price and the quality isn’t at par. If you can walk around further, there are more restaurant options in the vicinity.

Although the diners were mostly non-French tourists, the quality of food and their menu selectios were very good. The service is fast and friendly too, space within maybe too intact but that can be compensated with the food and wine offers.

There is another show that is neatly popular in Rocamadour, that is (8) Parc Durandal. Unfortunately, during our visit (late September) the show is not available – apparently it is on show during the summer holidays only.

I have failed to take photos of the other restaurant we dined in for lunch, Au Panorama. Although the name suggest it will have a panaromaic view of the village, it directly doesn’t have. The terrace platform across the road/in front of the restaurant is where you can have the panoramic view. Speaking of the food and service, okayish. Their confit de canard is a tad bit dry.

Rocamadour is a stunning village and a nice weekend trip for families or not. Come when you can.

Rocabella Santorini

A piece of heaven on earth, no exaggeration.

We came late early Spring/late March, hence a very good rate otherwise we won’t be able to afford it for five nights. Plus to the luck, the resort manager gave us a free upgrade to a plunge pool with sea view (our original booking did not have the sea view), thanks to our two lil gorgeous boys’ charm I guess.

From reception to concierge, housekeeping to the restaurant, everyone was at above-par service. Remarkable.

See more of this piece of paradise here.

Athens to Santorini with a Baby and a Toddler

A baby and a toddler, dog-tired parents, ten days marathon of taming rascals to behave, and a level of patience to survive the latter all unscathed… these are our reality as parents wanting a bit of “holiday” and have a happy, quality family time. Sure it doesn’t come easy but it is certainly worth the memories!

Mind you, it is possible to enjoy your holiday with a baby and a toddler with just you and your husband to manage it all. Just pack with you a ginormous amount of patience. If you have a nanny to go with you on travels, I envy you! Some days will be good, some/more days will be bad, and that’s okay. Here are some pointers we have learned to work and not work with our boys that may help you avoid the embarassment and the side-eyes in public:

1. Pack your kids’ favorite toys and add up some new ones to excite them and can really take their time -e.g. stickers, color/art books, pens and crayons, legos. Giving them their own backpack is a good idea too. If screen-time is ok for you too then go ahead for variety.
2. Go on hop-on-hop-off bus tour and/or guided trips with transport for easier navigation. It saves you time and the hustle of hailing a cab or going about the metro with two frisky boys.
3. Not all restaurants have baby chairs, especially the old and local hangouts. So if you want to be able to eat in peace with your little bambino minding his own food, ask the restaurant first if they have one before booking or entering.
4. Greek food is fresh and healthy, salads and grilled meats are the usual servings. If your LO is a picky-eater, better pack his/her food to avoid some evil tantrums. Otherwise, breads (with variety of dips), greek pizza, and pastas are usually available in the menu.
5. Strollers may not be a good idea in Athens if you are doing a HOHO bus tour and when you plan to climb up the Acropolis. Santorini will have some flat roads and pavements to walk around mostly but if you will be going in the overlooking neighborhoods to the sea and the Oia sunset, steep stairs and curves will pose a challenge. Better have a baby sling or wrap carrier and maybe some energy bars to sustain the calorie burn (but your hubby will gladly do it as his lil gym-time).
6. Be sure your LO’s are well dressed for the weather. We came in late March and it was still chilly and extra windy in Santorini. It can be sunny and hot in Athens until midday then breezy at night. So don’t forget to pack in some jumpers or sweaters to keep warm.
7. Fly from Athens to Santorini, because 1hr is much better than 5 to 8hrs of travel by ferry managing two little rascals. If you have to take the latter, then I suggest you take the trip at night where they will mostly sleep and be quiet.
8. Book a hotel which has its own restaurant for convenience and friendlier atmosphere. We loved our stay in Rocabella Santorini, especially their restaurant team. Our boys were spoiled and they sometimes entertain the kids too. It’s something you really appreciate when you know eating out can almost always spell disaster with two frisky little children.
9. Trips and snacks go together for your LO’s so don’t forget his/her fave crackers or so. If s/he is still on the milk routine, then don’t forget to pack the bottle and formula, depending on how much time you’d spend out be sure you have enough and extra of your thermo kept water. For breastfeeding mommies, it may be easier as we don’t need to pack anything else except some cloth cover or shawl.
10. Lastly, expect that sometimes things will go out of plan and that is part of the experience travelling as a family with youngsters. At this time and with their age, they may be controlling the time for you – nap time, feeding time, sleep time, etc. – and that could sometimes limit you or cut your plans short. That’s okay, just be sure to take loads of photos as all these moments will be beautiful to remember when times are already different. Enjoy all of it as a parent.

Bonne chance to you, mama and papa, keep strong and always have fun! Xx

Bisous, Laurice

The Beauty and Horror, that is Pregnancy.

Sitting here in the hospital lab waiting for 3 hours for a series of blood tests and urine samples with only a bottle of water to be taken (after making you gulp a disgusting bottle of sugar drink!); after fasting for at least 10 hours all because I’m pregnant (glucose test) and aching everywhere! I need to eat NOW, dammit!

After 1.5yrs, I’m back again to the cycle. Welcoming back 3months of nausea and puking, a bit of spike of energy in a couple of months after, and then back to hell without remorse.

Sure, before I even got pregnant with my first child, I deemed of pregnancy as something beautiful to experience, the very essence of a woman they say. I always see grace from these pregnant women, despite how they look and walk showing signs of difficulties. It boasts their sheer strength. It is so admirable. Not to mention, that beautiful small being you are making inside, a miracle for sure. Then, I have experienced it myself.

It is a beautiful experience indeed but a horror at the same time. And I am not yet talking about labor and delivery!

I am a working mom and chose not to have a nanny, I drop-off and pick-up our son to/from the nursery and takes care of him at home with the time left for the day. Mothers don’t rest, and I am amazed of the energy that I have everyday even while I am pregnant with our second. But some days, pregnancy just takes toll of my EQ and energy, or sometimes -all of me -and I’m unapologetic…

• Hormonal: I can go crazy in a snap and break your bone if provoked; at the same time cry like a baby for seeing a sick hippopotamus on TV. The same culprit for putting more pimples on your face and everywhere else, and those creepy hairs on your growing bump!
• Nausea & vomiting: no, I don’t care if I vomit in front of you, so get out of the way. And please move away, your perfume smells horrendous!
• Heartburn & bloating: Painful gassy stomach due to bloating (because your stomach muscles are relaxed due to hormonal changes). You eat because you are easily hungry (even at midnight) then your stomach backfires with pain. Then later it puts you to shame, making you fart more than usual for relief! (so much about beauty in pregnancy!)
• Cravings & weight-gain: I will eat anything I want and no one can stop me, or I will eat you too! One pint of dark chocolate ice cream and dark chocolate cake slice on the side please?! Then at the end of the day, you’ll cry for looking like a whale but you just can’t help it!
• Body aches and pains: This one’s a winner. It takes all your good vibes in pregnancy and drowns you with all sorts of sore, especially back and pelvic pains. Nope, you can’t sit too long in the office without feeling pain; nah you wish you can stand still for 5 more minutes; and walking makes your pee slip out like a criminal! And on weekends, I could not even outrun and chase a toddler around. Sitting down and standing up makes you look like a granny.

Imagine all that to be endured in 9 freaking months (except nausea, if you’re lucky) on your own. It’s an emotional battle more than a physical one in my opinion. But you know what, you’ll find new admiration for yourself for going through it even if you’re screaming inside. I feel the miracle of having my unborn child and that eternal bond between us (even if he often does karate inside while I’m having a good sleep). You feel so much love, that is the very thing that keeps you going.

It’s true what Science says, women have selective memory -if not, no woman might choose to have another child (and a dozen more!) after experiencing one pregnancy/delivery. Because after all the aches and pains, and much more horror during delivery, you forget everything!… I bet you, nothing beats the moment you finally see your baby and holding the beautiful miracle in your arms. Love will overflow, forever.