You read it right – 4 wholly dependent tiny human beings vs 3 thriving adults on a 5-day trip around Bordeaux during the breezy cool French autumn… it’s possible! Just pack a dozen extra luggages of patience and energy, and solved!
Ok, kids look at the camera and smile!… (not gonna happen.)
This was in the beginning of October hence the weather is still almost perfect – not too hot and not too cold, blessed with mostly sunshine and some short drizzles too. In essence, long walks are not a problem – even with toddlers – walking each day at minimum 3kms seems like a walk in the park, just don’t forget to take a break for food and snacks and all will be well.
Travelling with toddlers and an infant is not for you (as an adult) – remember that! It is impossible for you to have an adult fun – I meant relaxation and just being free to do as you please – because these toddlers will control your schedule! So if you want that kind of holiday trip – give yourself a favor and travel without youngsters, if ever possible. For the strong-willed travellers like me and my friends – kids won’t deter our travel bug even if we know it will be exhausting. You gotta do what you got to do ei!
There is beauty amidst the chaos… of travelling with toddlers, that is! Not a “walk in the park,” but fun moments to keep.
The week went by fast but luckily we were able to visit 85% of the places we planned for the little humans to enjoy around – mostly by foot but the tram is a savior for our tired legs at the end of the day. We stayed on an AirBnB apartment within the city center, around the university area for good value food deals and easy navigation.
Thinking of dining-in? Take-away and eating within your comfy space is way more relaxing tho – less death stares to thy little rascals too.Yep, toddler-on-a-leash! That helps if you want to keep all 4 alive and safe without so much headache!Travel with kids, they say. It will be fun, they say… *winkThis supermama friend of mine was carrying her 10kg infant mostly throughout those 5 days of walkathon around Bordeaux. She deserves a medal! Nope, do not expect baby-seats/baby-chairs in most French cafes and restaurants. Gives you another good reason to have take-aways instead.Weather was generally nice, early autumn with sunshine mostly in the day but expect some light showers here and there. Could get cold and breezy at night too.The beauty of it all – children help you appreciate the small and simple things in life.
So you see, it is possible to travel with a bunch of little minions – just don’t expect everything will go as planned. Simply take the joy from seeing their smiles and laughter in memorable new places 😀
Only 1.5hrs away from our hometown, Limoges, Rocamadour is a good plan for a long weekend. It is a small village in the south-central France, a UNESCO world heritage site and a pilgrimage (religious site) since the medieval ages by kings, bishops and nobles.
The village on the cliff is very well preserved even after the world wars and revolutions. It’s best point of interest is the ancient pilgrim (and miraculous) church of Notre Dame which houses the wooden black madonna statue revered to be carved by St. Amator himself.
For French literature and history fanatics, around the wall close to the pilgrim church of Notre Dame you will see the alleged sword mark and fragment of the “Durandal” when the hero Roland (of Charlemagne) came in the site as a pilgrim. Pretty awesome, ei?!
With our two boys (aged 1 and 3 then), we ventured off for a long weekend and stayed for two nights at a family-friendly and right-at-the-center hotel, Le Relais Amadourien. We have planned our itinerary based on access from the hotel for the three-days-stay. Scroll below for photos of these top places to see and do in and around Rocamadour.
(1) The view of Rocamadour religious site from the panorama terrace of the center. Down the valley is the now dried up river of Rocamadour.
(2) Rocher des Aigles – an hour show (shows are scheduled after every hour) which not only showcases the flights of majestic eagles but of other birds of prey such as vultures and falcons; and ending the show with the row of colorful parrots frolicking about at their carers’ cues. Great for kids and also educational for adults.
The view from our family room at Le Relais Amadourien, promoted as an “eco-friendly” hotel. It has a queen bed and a bunk bed which is perfect for our two boys. The room is well spaced with its clean private bath/toilet – the only irony is the use of plastic cup in the washroom, glass would have been better and eco-friendly.
(3) Above the valley, after a flight of stairs following the pilgrimage route, is Le Château de Rocamadour – provides a lovely view of village from its terrace. Note that it closes after 6PM so better come early to enjoy the beautiful scenery.
Rest place with a view – the village is hanging by the cliff and the ancient way to go around it is by walking up and down its flight of stairs (altho there is a lift on the mid part of the cliff to help people who gets tired or can’t go further on thru the stairs, except for pilgrims). Since we have kids and a stroller, we wavered thru its stairs from up the valley down where there are now converted restaurants and shops.
(4) The Miraculous Chapel – where the Black Madonna statue carved in a wood by St. Amadour itself is placed at the altar. Miracles of fertility were the usual registered miracles from its historical records and from our visit we saw mostly couples visiting the chapel. There are other chapels around Cité Réligious complex of Rocamadour including the Crypt of Saint Amadour.
(5) Cité Réligieuse de Rocamadour – awe-inspring place, gave me goosebumps how tranquil and how it amazingly sat at the cliff since medieval ages. When you reach this site, you are already midway from the trekking that great staircase.
The miraculous Black Madonna of Rocamadour, believed to be carved by St. Amadour before his death close to the chapel.
Inside the miraculous chapel you will be welcomed by surrounding shelves of lit candles, as sign of prayers from pilgrims and miracle-wishers. The feeling inside the chapel is surreal, peaceful and calm, even my 3yr old was quiet looking about.
Taken from the side of Le Lion D’Or Hotel and its seemingly tourist-popular restaurant just across it. The view up is where the cité réligieuse is hanging by.
(6) Gouffre de Padirac (Padirac Cave) – an hour drive from Rocamadour, this cave is the largest underground cave in Europe, 100meters deep. It has an underground river which is traversed via boat, a great spectacle of nature via thousands years of formation.
At the end of the river cruise within the cave system, tourists can marvel the deepest site of the cave with its glorious stalactites and stalagmites from thousands of years ago.
(7) La Forêt des Singes – monkey (macaques) forest where they roam and live “free” within this huge forest. All guests are given a handful of popcorns which can be fed to the monkeys, in addition to their veggies and fruits diet around the forest. The kids loved this experience!
The monkeys were all healthy, not one did I see a thin one. They are fed well if not much, and looking content. No aggressive behaviour either, most of the monkeys were huge but they were amazingly calm – I get nervous everytime our kids would hand some popcorn but all were so chill, taking the popcorn from the hand and just went back to what s/he is doing unless handed another popcorn again -no waiting or begging. Humans can learn from animals indeed.
The view from our room looking out below at the breakfast area of the hote. The breakfast spread could be improved tho, i.e. more bread selections.
This is a restaurant across our hotel, tourist-trap. Diners were mostly tourists outside France, hence the price and the quality isn’t at par. If you can walk around further, there are more restaurant options in the vicinity.
Although the diners were mostly non-French tourists, the quality of food and their menu selectios were very good. The service is fast and friendly too, space within maybe too intact but that can be compensated with the food and wine offers.
There is another show that is neatly popular in Rocamadour, that is (8) Parc Durandal. Unfortunately, during our visit (late September) the show is not available – apparently it is on show during the summer holidays only.
I have failed to take photos of the other restaurant we dined in for lunch, Au Panorama. Although the name suggest it will have a panaromaic view of the village, it directly doesn’t have. The terrace platform across the road/in front of the restaurant is where you can have the panoramic view. Speaking of the food and service, okayish. Their confit de canard is a tad bit dry.
Rocamadour is a stunning village and a nice weekend trip for families or not. Come when you can.
Have you heard of the city of Limoges before? A provincial city in the west-center of France, Limoges is a “secret” jewel destination just like its ancient crypts and tunnels.
Luckily, Limoges is now our new home as a family, my husband’s hometown. Globally marked for its créme de la créme porcelain, sumptuous Limousin beef, and birthplace of Renoir (who started as a porcelain painter), the city has so much to share in a melange of history, food and arts. Not to mention, it was also awarded a UNESCO Creative City.
Place de la Republique – view from Mercure Hotel (2015)
Vienne River – take a lovely walk between two ancient medieval bridges – Pont St. Etienne and Pont St. Martial.
Rue de la Boucherie, don’t miss the medieval church of St. Aurelien.
The small beautiful town is concise enough for a weekend trip of exploration. If you have more days to spare, then you can venture off the outskirts for some nature trip (i.e. forest parks, lakes) and ancient castles.
The charming Limoges provides much of French culture, history and arts that make it certainly worth a visit while it is still considerably under the radar for tourism. If you need any help or guidance to maximize your visit, feel free to message me and I will be happy to help.
After a long flight, short nap, and winter ‘walkathon’ around the city of lights, we had our much anticipated ‘Joyeux-Noel-feels’ finale via a fancy-schmancy Christmas dinner at the Tripadvisor-famous, Le Train Bleu restaurant.
Inside, I could not stop my mouth from gaping. The frescoes, carvings, gilding, and chandeliers… I felt like an aristocrat from the French belle epoque. No wonder they said that Coco Chanel and Brigitte Bardot were regulars at this historic monument of the 1900’s.
This place is too posh and classy I felt restricted to look at the menu and rather order one Badoit for 15minutes then leave. But since my husband is taking the bill for our Christmas dinner, my fancy-schmancy-binge-eating mode was game on!
Find this gem at Gare de Lyon train station.
I can gape and stare at its interior all day.
Fancy some French wine in red, white or pink?
Foie gras. fatty but heavenly. more of that bread, puhlees!
Smoked salmon, pickled ginger and lemon chutney.
First main course: baked scallops and mushroom risotto, urgh!
This right here is magic! Vodka on lime sorbet. Drink it like a boss and feel your stomach creating more space for more binge eating.
Some grilled chicken and preserved root veggies. Average!
A balance of tangy, bittery and sweet. Campari poppy jelly on grapefruit sorbet. Must. Make. Space. For. Finale. Dessert!…
And finally, no matter how full your stomach gets -there is always room for dessert! Dessert doesn’t go to your stomach, it goes to your heart! *wink
Meet Apollo, Le Train Bleu’s resident feline.
Just. Look. At. That!
I suggest you come here to experience the legendary place and its unparalleled 1900’s decor from 27 famous French artists of that time. The food may be overpriced but hey, the experience is priceless.
In a 3-day visit to my husband’s hometown, we only had one chance to eat out (I must say French hospitality is impeccable and irresistible – we gorged on local foods at friends’ invitations).
And this only place we gorged in is absolutely leveled (or maybe a little more) to the home-cooked quality food and premium aged wines we’ve had at our friends’ dining tables! No wonder, this restaurant was my husband’s favorite since he was in college – a cozy and small restaurant within the old quartier of Limoges (a UNESCO world heritage), but once you get inside you know you’re in for some treat with smells that make you so hungry you want to scream out for the menu!
It was lunchtime and the restaurant was quite packed with locals –professors, students, and professionals –and like any wise travel tips say, go where the locals go and you’re in for a real-deal local food (without robbing you off with the price!). We waited a bit for a table (guaranteeing this is an “it” eatery) and as soon as we got our seats –food list to order was ready (excitedly)!
For our starter, of course we had a French Pate (duck liver and fats, yum!) –and at this restaurant, they offered it on unlimited serving! Oh I could not breathe with my maneuver of biting and chewing and biting another one while my mouth is full. Don’t blame me, it’s just sooooo gooooood (if only my husband took a photo while I was eating it)! Partnered with a freshly baked crunchy French bread and that tingly-sweet pickles, just perfect! I could stare at this picture all day.
So my husband had to remind me to stop eating pate because we had to move on to the mains we ordered: escargot (politely taken out of the shells so I can just squall at it) cooked in wine and that heavenly, divine pork liver in baked creamy potato French dish. It’s hard not to overact just describing how awesome they tasted! Red wine (shiraz) was just perfect.
And making that grand finale on our table is a puffy/spongy cake swamped in magnificent tasting cream with brittle caramel on top. I don’t need to say more with this picture.
I know that after my trip to France, I’d be craving and crying for these foods in Dubai. And now that I’m pregnant –medically disallowed of anything raw or any animal liver –all I could do is write about my gastronomic/foodgasm experience while aghast and crying for these porn foodies until I get to taste them once more…
NOMADIC PURSUITS 